Shrink JPG files and keep them looking the same.
Your files never leave this device.
Compress JPEG and JPG photos by choosing a quality level and, if you want, a maximum size for the longest side. The tool writes a new JPEG, shows it next to the original and reports how many kilobytes you saved. Everything runs in your browser, so the photos are never uploaded.
Set the quality to about 75 to 85 and compare with the slider. JPEG always discards some detail when it is saved again, but at these levels most photos look the same to the eye while becoming much smaller.
For photos on a website or in a message, 70 to 80 is a sound starting point. Go higher, around 85 to 90, only for images you will print or edit further, because file size grows quickly at the top of the scale.
The pixel dimensions are probably the cause. A 12-megapixel photo stays heavy even at low quality, so also set a maximum side such as 1920 px. If the file is already well optimized, the original is returned unchanged.
Yes. JPG and JPEG are the same format; the shorter name exists only because older systems limited file extensions to three letters. Both extensions open in exactly the same programs.
Yes. Drop all of them together; each one is processed on your device and you can download them as a single ZIP. There is no daily limit and no watermark.
Yes. The compressed copy is written from scratch, so the camera model, date and GPS location are not carried over. If a file cannot get smaller and the original is kept, its metadata is kept too.
Yes. Drop it in, keep the format on JPEG and the result is saved as a JPEG. HEIC photos from an iPhone are also saved as JPEG.
JPEG is a lossy format, so quality is a trade between size and detail. For most photos, a value between 70 and 80 keeps the picture clean to the eye and often cuts the file to a fraction of its original size. Faces, skies and soft backgrounds hide the loss well. Hard edges and fine text show it first as fuzzy halos around the lettering.
A reliable method is to move the slider while watching the before and after view. Stop at the lowest value where you cannot tell the two apart at normal viewing size, then add a little margin.
A modern phone photo often has 4000 by 3000 pixels or more, far beyond what a web page or a chat window can show. Limiting the longest side to 1920 or 1600 pixels removes data nobody will ever see, and it usually saves more than any quality change. If you need exact dimensions, set them first with the resize tool and compress afterwards.
Keep the original file if you may print the photo later. A reduced copy cannot get its lost pixels back.
JPEG opens in every app, email client and upload form, which is why it remains the safe choice. If you only publish on the web and want smaller files, the general image compressor can also write WebP or AVIF, which are usually smaller at the same look.
Graphics with flat colors, logos and screenshots are a poor fit for JPEG because compression leaves visible noise around edges. For those, see compress PNG instead.
Upload forms often reject files above a fixed limit. Instead of guessing the quality, set a target size and let the tool lower the quality, and then the dimensions, until the photo fits. A common case is covered on the compress to 100 KB page.
Compressing also drops the hidden location and camera data, which is useful before sharing. To check what a file carries first, open the EXIF viewer.
| This tool | Upload-based services | |
|---|---|---|
| Do files leave your device? | No | Yes |
| Account required | No | Often |
| Daily limit | None | Often |
| Watermark | None | Sometimes |
With the local MCP server, an assistant can run compress_image on JPEG files on your computer, for example “shrink every JPG in this folder to quality 75”. The files stay on your machine.
